On our way through Cambodia we stopped for a few nights in Sihanoukville, the country’s most famous beach town. Many long beaches attract tourists, at peak times quite a lot. However, just a few miles to the east is an island with way fewer people. This is where we got to enjoy a remarkable island experience.
Cambodia is in our opinion the next big up and coming holiday destination. Luckily the rest of the world has not realised that yet. Koh Ta Kiev is an island on the outskirts of Sihanoukville with five accommodation places. It is possible to stay in tents, hotel rooms and one last kind of accommodation: Bungalows near the beach. It could have been taken straight out of a movie, a small cabin made of straw and wood located right next to the sandy beaches with crystal clear water and lush green forests. No annoying street vendors, no traffic noise, very few other people and nothing but the sound of the waves hitting the beach.
The price for this little piece of paradise is a mere 25 USD; way below what a European would expect to pay. For this price you get your own bungalow with a toilet, platform hanging above the ocean, out of view from nearby huts and hammocks to relax in.
The “resort” is owned by a French man in his 50s. He has long, gray hair, swimming shorts and an unbuttoned shirt. We don’t really know what his story is, but he really looks like a man that went on a vacation to Cambodia and decided never to return back home. His very way of being and his body language expresses that this is a man who enjoys life. And who wouldn’t if your job was to take people to a paradise island and show them how great it is?
The prices on the island are naturally a bit higher than on the mainland, there is no competition for customers here, but compared to other countries it is still not bad. A pint of beer is 1,50 USD and a simple dinner is 4-6 USD.
Technological facilities are limited. No Internet, no credit card readers and barely any power. There is electrical light along the path to the huts and at the bar a few hours in the evening, but apart from this the island is electricity-free. The island also lacks fundamental things like a pier. At arrival the boat is anchored and stops a few meters from shore. We have to jump into the water with our backpacks above our heads and wade towards land. A more genuine island experience is hard to come by.
The island also offers its fair share of wildlife. Out on the rocks in the water are dozens of crabs tanning in the sun. At least that’s our best guess of what they were doing. If you step too close they escape into the ocean, but get back onto the rocks again as soon as you step away. Hermit crabs are also present in large numbers along the beach. They crawl around and jump into their shells when someone passes by. Unfortunately we also learned that the island hosts rats. Do not bring food here!
As night approaches the sun sets and terrible weather is emerging on the horizon. Luckily it never hits us, but we get to witness a spectacular show of lightning. Around every 20-30 seconds for several hours the lightning hits the horizon. The otherwise very dark sky is illuminated by contrast filled clouds with lightning bolts visible through them at times. What a view!
About Koh Ta Kiev
The island is located east of Sihanoukville, it takes around one hour to get there by boat from the mainland. The boat ride costs 13 USD for a return ticket or 10 if you order through the hotel in advance. The boat departs from Wish You Were Here Bar on Otres Beach. A tuk tuk costs around 4 USD if your haggling skills are up to date; we paid 5. Be aware that the tuk tuk mafia runs this town and ensures that prices are notoriously high and hard to negotiate.
Crusoe Island
The accommodation place we visited is called Crusoe Island. There are other options, but Crusoe Island offers online booking and payment, and a bit more private and separated accommodations. Therefore we chose to book here.
Prices per 18th of December 2016 are:
Camping permit: 3 USD
Tent: 10 USD
Hammock: 5 USD
Bungalow: 15-25 USD
Bungalow dorm: 8 USD
Boat to the island: 10 USD (pre-booked), 13 USD (purchased at departure)
Things to be aware of: There is no electricity available to charge your camera, phone and so on. If you ask nicely the staff might charge your phone a bit in the bar, but don’t count on it. There is also no Internet, so credit cards are useless here. Bring enough cash for the whole stay. The prices for food is OK, slightly more expensive than on the mainland, but not really exploiting their monopoly. It is possible to bring your own food, but due to the presence of rats we do not recommend this.
Another popular accommodation on the island is Kactus. They also feature bungalows and similar facilities.
